On December 9th, 2005, Focus Features released the Ang Lee-directed film Brokeback Mountain, worked from a screenplay written by Larry McMurtry and Diana Ossana, and based on the short story of the same title by Annie Proulx. Brokeback Mountain began filming in May in the prairie province of Alberta, Canada, and wrapped production in August 2004.
As an avid wearer of Carhartt products over the years, I have been taking notice of Carhartt styles used for wardrobes of characters in movies and television productions. When time allows, I assemble the information into a post such as this.
Brokeback Mountain was memorable for one well-known Carhartt product worn by one of the main characters, Ennis del Mar. Heath Ledger, the actor who played the del Mar part, was fitted with what is most commonly known as a “chore coat” from Carhartt.
In the movie, Ennis del Mar wears the chore coat from 1963, when the story begins, until around 1965, (based on the screenplay). At that point, del Mar favors a Lee Storm Rider blanket-lined jacket, apropos of the times. Given the aged look of the chore coat in the film, we can reasonably assume del Mar wore the chore coat beginning in his teen-aged years 1959-1960 (based on details in the short story, del Mar would have been born around 1943-1944). Ennis del Mar does not wear a chore coat again until later in the film during the early 1980s, sporting a gray Dickies blanket-lined coat, signifying his increasingly destitute status. By that time, Carhartt outerwear was likely a bit out of the budget for the del Mar character, whose lot and standing in life trended downward after his divorce in 1973.
Specifically, Ledger wore the Brown Duck Blanket-Lined Coat (6BLC). The lot number (commonly referred to as the “style code”) was color- and style-specific. From 1968 to 1999* customers could order a “6BLC” and receive exactly that. The long sized variant was 6BLCL until around 1981-1982, when “long” was replaced with “tall,” thus 6BLCT. Long/tall sizes added 2″ length to body and sleeves.
Lot number 6BLC is a bit intuitive compared to today’s 6-digit style numbers (i.e., 103825). We can “read” the lot number as follows:
6 – was the early color code for “Brown Duck.”
BL – Blanket lined, indicating the lining fabric and type.
C- Coat.
Carhartt made clear distinction between coats and jackets, even if the general public uses the terms interchangeably.

Screenshot from 1969 Carhartt catalog entry for 6BLC
Ennis del Mar’s chore coat, while mostly looking the part, is anachronistic to the time period of the story (and to his early life) based on the overall appearance. In 1963 when the story begins, the 6LC–precursor to the 6BLC–had the following style indicators: a woven wool-blend blanket lining (made by Troy Woolen Mills) with colorful, dyed horizontal stripes, copper rivets, and the hem had a banded finish. A more period-accurate chore coat from 1963, having been worn for the last decade or so previous, would have appeared as below.

6LC as it appeared in the late 1950s. Compare the pocket styling above to the pockets on the chore coat Ledger wears in the film.

6LC as it appeared around 1965 with the “snagproof logo”. Note the dyed (and colorful) horizontal stripe pattern on the woven blanket lining.

Heath Ledger, in character as Ennis del Mar, wearing what is most likely the Carhartt 6BLC. Image courtesy of Kimberly French/Focus Features. The coat Ledger wears in the film is roughly contemporary to the time of filming, but not the time of the story.

Ennis del Mar leaves the road after getting dropped off by a truck driver in Signal, WY. Photo of paused frame.
On the other hand, Ledger’s chore coat has a blanket lining made of reprocessed acrylic and polyester materials with a printed vertical stripe pattern (seen above), brass instead of copper rivets, and a double-rolled hem finish. Ledger’s chore coat can be dated from around 1985 to 2002 based on overall appearance. The cloth Carhartt “C” logo label that is typically affixed to the left breast patch pocket was removed prior to filming.

Ang Lee, third from left, wearing the C59 chore coat. Image courtesy of Kimberly French/Focus Features.
Perhaps director Ang Lee was a fan of the chore coat style during the filming of “Brokeback Mountain.” In the photo above, Lee is wearing the Blanket-Lined Washed Denim Chore Coat (C59) in the color “Darkstone,” a style that was introduced in 2003 and discontinued in 2006. The C59 was the last blanket-lined denim chore coat with a corduroy trimmed collar made by Carhartt.

The C59 chore coat. Photo from author’s personal collection.
Beginning in 1997, Carhartt took to consolidating their lot numbers into style codes. The 6BLC became the C01, signifying it was the number one coat produced by Carhartt, and “6” the old color code for “Brown Duck” became “BRN” for “Carhartt Brown”. After all, by the time the C01 was packaged for shipping from the factory, that style in its then-current iteration–bi-swing back, corduroy trimmed collar–had been in production since 1954, with some minor detail and material changes. During this time, “Brown Duck” became known as “Carhartt Brown,” and “blanket-lined coat” was changed to “chore coat.”
It is possible Ledger wore the early C01 (1997-2002), which is the same style as the later 6BLC (1985-1998) with the only difference being the change in style code. We can tell Ledger’s coat is not newer than 2002 because the inside pocket is not visible on the wearer’s left. In 2003, the inside pocket was moved to the wearer’s left from the right as part of a number of changes made during a style-wide sizing adjustment to during the upgrade to “Work Fit.”
With simplified style codes came simplified style names. Metaphorically, that change also signaled the beginning of the end of “brown duck” as common workwear. Workwear today is mostly cheap petroleum products bordering on fast fashion trash and accompanied by intrusive advertising. This change in workwear can also signify the change in labor–it isn’t as physical as it was and the future of labor remains murky.
As of 2024, Carhartt no longer makes a blanket-lined chore coat. Carhartt was one of the last holdouts offering firm duck workwear long after many legacy brands abandoned such styles in favor of lighter weight duck canvas with a higher petroleum content. Discontinuing the production of the chore coat style, long a mainstay in Carhartt’s traditional workwear lineup, signaled the end of an era.
*Notes
By 1998 the old style codes were officially gone and the simplified codes were cemented. Some new old stock likely remained on the shelves with the older style codes.































